Icefall Peak (panorama from three frames). We skied several lines in this image.
Personnel: Stan Wagon, 64, Silverthorne, Colo. Katie Larson, Montezuma, Colo. Bob Portmann, Silverthorne, Colo. Jonathan Kriegel, Silverthorne, Colo. Elke Dratch, Breckenridge, Colo. Bill Egbert, Breckenridge, Colo. Heather Glyde, Leadville, Colo. Glenn Cain, Alma, Colo.
Guide: Larry Dolecki; Assistant: Steve Konik Sofia Forsman from Boras, Sweden Cook: Heather
Sunday April 10, 2016. We flew in via Alpine Helicopters in the Bell 212, the large one (and same machine we used in 2013 at Oasis Lake). Perfect flying weather. We flew wonderfully close to the Arras banana couloirs. We skied up the southernmost Division basin where we had a superb view of Forbes, descended on perfect corn, and then climbed and skied half of the middle Division basin in excellent corn snow. Hot. We also visited the ice cave we had found in 2003. And also a new ice tunnel very close to the Mons Hut.
April 11. To Cambrai summit (10282 feet) on gentle snow slopes, then around Messines. Got a great view of the famous Mons rappel we did in 2003. Finished via the east shoulder of Mons, which was icy and difficult for me. My new knee does not like the stress of difficult conditions.
April 12. To the Continental Divide north of Division. Then a pitch along the crest using a rope for a hand-line. Then ski down to the rim of Icefall Canyon. Up to near Division 1. Icy again. At the end of the day I investigated the new ice tunnel. Just after the pitch-with-rope Katie spotted a wolverine crossing the divide to go east. Again, the icy conditions were hard on my knee.
April 13. To Lyell Hut. Clear day. Fast travel. Steve led the way as Larry stayed behind a little to organize the hut. We had done this route in the opposite direction in 2012.
Thursday April 14. We started the day with the 2000-foot climb of Lyell 5 by an efficient route around the west side. This provided a great view of the peak’s rocky side. The summit area this year was very different than 2012 and we could easily walk the final ridge line to the top, though not everyone did so. The ski down the face was fine in old powder, as was the rest of the descent to the hut. Then we descended to the bottom of Tivoli and a bootpack got us to the very pretty upper basin and over to Tivoli Shoulder. But the descent of the shoulder was icy, and difficult for me. A long day. All were happy to spread out and enjoy the comforts of the Lodge: sauna, shower, beds. Larry has expanded the lodge, and the new kitchen is remarkable. Jonny Buckets had his guitar at the Lodge, and his playing was appreciated.
April 15. Friday. To the Diamond Glacier Crevasses via Ice Pass. Heather and I returned from there with Steve. The climb back up to Ice Pass went smoothly and quickly for us and the run back to camp had the best skiing of the week so far on perect corn. The others went a good ways up the Diamond Spur, covering some of the route to Icefall Peak and reporting great steep powder. On descent they came down the Tempest Glacier, and they then returned via Ice Pass. A big day for them. Bill made one misstep near the bottom and broke a pole.
April 16. Saturday. To summit of Orbit Peak (8350 feet) with one bonus run on ascent. Some steep booting through a cliff band was needed to gain the upper bowl, and from there the route to the top was easy and spectacular. The summit views were stupendous, especially of Icefall Peak. We could look north and see the other group going up a steep couloir on Alien. Jonathan, Glenn, and I returned with Sofia and had a true steep powder run in the upper bowl. Others descended Terminal Velocity west back into the Icefall Peak basin and returned via Ice Pass. Great way to end the week.
April 17. Sunday. Most of the team went out for a morning ski on Alien Shoulder. We exited by heli at about 11:30 am with no problems, and then the 1.5-day drive back, this time via Missoula, Pocatello, Kemmerer, Baggs, and Steamboat Springs. That route is shorter than my usual Denver–Billings–Great Falls–Banff route.
The giant ice cave that our group found in 2003.The cave’s interior. Rock and ice, by Heather Glyde.From a saddle near the southernmost peak of Division we had a superb view of Forbes, which Katie, I, and David Nebel climbed in August, 1999.Bill after the first ski descent of the trip, in good corn. Photo: Bob PortmannBob enjoys the clear day on the Mons Icefield. To Bob’s left in the rear is the col that starts the Mons rappel we did in 2003, and the snow-covered Cambrai Mountain that we skied to the summit of the day after this one.A view of the Lyell Icefield, with Lyell 5 (Christian Peak) in the center. Four days later we skied up and down Lyell 5.Happy Hour near the Mons Hut. Photo by Glenn Cain.Heading to Cambrai. Lyell 5 is the white peak above Jonathan’s head and the Lyell Hut is just barely visible above the left end of the rear skier’s shadow. Photo: Glenn Cain.A view (from near summit of Cambrai) of the rappel off the Mons Icefield on the route of the Great Divide Traverse. We did this in 2003.En route to Cambrai summit, Forbes in rear. Photo Glenn Cain.Jonathan and Heather approaching top of Cambrai Mountain.Valenciennes Mountain and the terrain around our base camp in April 2015. Camp was just out of frame on right.Heading to Mons after having visited Cambrai (white peak left of center). Photo: Glenn Cain.A bump near Messines that was the start of our second run.Interior of Mons HutA short belayed stretch right on the Divide, on the Lyell IcefieldStan on windpack, exactly on the Continental Divide. Photo: Bob Portmann.Mons Hut in the afternoon.Stan checked out the new ice tunnel by himself. Photo: Glenn Cain.Assistant Steve KonikThe route to Lyell Hut starts with a nice descent. Photo: Glenn Cain.Looking back at Mons Peak, with St. Julien and Cambrai in left rear.The summit of Lyell 5, known as Christain Peak after Christian Häsler. It was very different this year than in 2012.Looking back at Forbes, Rosita, Division, and the Continental Divide at left.Jonathan near the final climb to the Lyell Hut. (Photo: Bob Portmann)The Lyell Hut is perched on a small plateau above some rocks, at 9400 feet.Lyell Hut. Photo: Glenn Cain.We were a bit tired upon arriving at the hut. (Photo: Bob Portmann)Jonathan approaching Lyell 5 (photo by Bob Portmann)Approaching Lyell 5. (Photo by Heather Glyde)The majority of the group continued up the Diamond Spur for a very long day. This is the slope they skied from their high point. The photos of Icefall Peak in the next group (Saturday) show their line and their tracks. The rock on left is the prominent triangle rock. Photo: Glenn Cain.Looking south from the summit. Photo: Bob Portmann.Looking toward the summit of Lyell 5. Panorama by Bob Portmann.Katie starting up a bootback to gain the plateau atop Tivoli Shoulder.Jonathan on the summit walk, which was exposed in a few spots, but there was no cornice and the walk was easy.Jonathan finishing his descent of the south face of Lyell 5.After the climb we returned to the hut (lower left) to finish packing. Arras and the banana couloirs of both the north and west faces on right.Booting. Photo: Glenn Cain.A break.The new kitchen at Icefall Lodge, with Heather the cook.Stan at Ice Pass; Arras in rear right. Photo: Bob PortmannA certain section of the Diamond Glacier forms crevasses and seracs that vary each year. This year’s version was interesting as always. This was my third visit to this area. Bob and Katie.Guide Larry Dolecki.Larry and ElkeBob PortmannLarry on the bonus first run of the day. La Clytte and Groove Tube behind.Apprentice Sofia Forsman from Sweden.A view of the Lodge from the start of our ascent into Orbit.Glenn on the bonus first run of the day. La Clytte and Groove Tube behind.Jonathan KriegelKatie LarsonAlien Peak; Bianca’s party is in the narrow gully rising left to right.Cruising the upper reaches of Orbit to get to the summit, out of frame on right.Bob and his green Black Crows, Icefall Peak behind.The next shot is a 3-frame vertical panorama of Icefall Peak. Just below the triangle rock in center is the crevasse area of the Diamond Glacier that yields fantastic shapes every year. Just above the rock the tracks of the team that climbed about 500 feet above the rock are visible; they were on the Diamond Spur. A zoom below shows those tracks.Closeup of Icefall ski run.Larry and Rostrum.Stan and Arras at top of Orbit.Bob with Tivoli Spire and Tivoli Shoulder above his right boot. We descended Tivoli Shoulder two days earlier.A view of our camping area from 2015 below Valenciennes Peak. Mons on left, then St. Julien. Then Park Pass and Valenciennes Mountain; our camp was just above the snaking white drainage (Mons Creek). The sunny saddle with an unnamed high peak on its right was one of the finer spots we visited last year.The descent into the upper bowl of Orbit had the best powder of the week. Sofia led Glenn, Jonathan, and me down here.Departure.
